Saturday, 31 March 2018

Ankara prints - The facts about Ankara



One of the traditional outfits in the sub – Sahara region, other African countries or the black communities.  It has its origin from Africa;  made of different eye catching colours, different patterns, tribal symbols and designs (Motif)
It all started thousands of years ago by the African, using roots, herbs, bark of tress, sand, ashes, charcoal, and every natural substance that has the ability to stain or colour, plant based starch and gums.

Different types of robes made of straw or palm leaves. Ropes in different sizes, shapes and patterns used for the dyeing contribute to the beauty of the designs; the process is called ‘Tie and Dye’ where by some parts of cotton materials or any material made with 80% cotton is tied and dyed and some parts are prevented from getting stained by using two or more  dye colours.

Objects like stones of different shapes, woods are cut into different shapes and sizes, broken pieces of earthen vessels etc are tied to give the clothes or materials some unique patterns and colours, all these were made manually. Tie and dye fabric is called Kampala or Adire in some parts of Nigeria










tie and dye
Then another invention emerges where dyes and stamps curved from calabash were used to print manually , for example Adinkra of Ghana is one of the recorded African traditional print of the Pre-colonial origin introduced in 1818............   
                                    http://www.adireafricantextiles.com/adinkraintroduction.htm


                                        




As the time progresses due high demand and technology, machines or machineries were used for textiles giving these patterns and symbols more precision, the designs were more accentuated making the patterns more detailed and beautiful.
The real African Ankara has no reverse side (right or wrong side) One can use any side because the colours are distributed equally just like tie and dye techniques. Now because different textiles write some production information beneath which most people assume that the legible side is the right side; on like batik and other wax that the right/wrong sides are noticeable, the real Ankara is expensive compare to other wax prints and it does not fade after few washing, while others do.

                                        
Ankara 

As the demand increased a mass production started from other countries, Vlisco, Batik  etc started imitating the motif of the Ankara materials, which are also called Ankara because they have the symbols, patterns and colours, design and are made of cottons. They were welcomed because they were cheaper. These days some exporters have modified the imitation of the Ankara wax print fabric into a no right/wrong side prints for better sales.







Watch how the imitation of Ankara has taken over the market because it is cheap




One of the ancient ways of making tie dye in Nigeria, please if you have a video from another  African Country, let me have the link in the comment box. Thanks


















sources

http://www.adireafricantextiles.com